Grand Seiko watch 5722-9011 Vintage 1967 Gold Cap

The first-ever Grand Seiko model, which is known as the “First”, debuted in 1960. These 36mm watches were made with either gold-filled or solid platinum cases and had thin lugs that extended from the top and bottom of the case, in 1960, they became the first Japanese officially certified chronometer watches and used a movement that would largely carry over to into the GS 43999. These are legendary watches, and modern renditions can be found as part of today’s Elegance line within the Grand Seiko catalog under the model name “First.

Significant changes came in 1963, though, with the new Grand Seiko 57GS Self-Dater Chronometer. The relatively anonymous design of the “First” made way for a more unique case that would quietly set the tone for future GS releases. The somewhat spindly lugs were replaced by chunkier units that flowed organically from the mid-case. Platinum became steel, and gold-filled joined solid gold. The dagger hands remained but were paired with thicker applied indices and logo.

The notable addition to the 43999/5722 was a date window, hence the name “Self-Dater.” Its the first-ever Grand Seiko to sport such a feature. Still, we must remember that at this time, Seiko was highly interested in besting the Swiss. Therefore, the brand wasn’t content with simply adding a date function. This watch, 60 years ago, had a very modern and rare (for the time) quick-set mechanism.

The Grand Seiko caliber 430, later renamed 5722B, is a manual winding mechanical movement, that runs at 19800bph, has 35 jewels and a power reserve of 45 hours

Interestingly, “Chronometer” was on the dial under the Seiko logo through 1966. After this point, the Swiss chronometer rules took effect, and it disappeared. While the watch was a certified chronometer, a Gothic “Grand Seiko” font stood above 6 o’clock. This too was replaced with an applied “GS” logo, “Grand Seiko,” and “Diashock” in 1967 and 1968.

PERSONAL NOTE

The Grand Seiko 5722 Self-Dater is an important chapter in the brand’s history due to its date function. It, along with the King Seiko 4420-9990 and Seiko Liner 46999 made up the “big three” chronometer-certified watches from the brand before the rules changed. It’s a mighty watch and being freshly serviced, can easily step for daily duty.