Grand Seiko watch 43999 Chronometer 430 GS Self Dater Vintage 1964

The first-ever Grand Seiko model, which is known as the “First”, debuted in 1960. These 35mm watches were made with either gold-filled or solid platinum cases and had thin lugs that extended from the top and bottom of the case, in 1960, they became the first Japanese officially certified chronometer watches and used a movement that would largely carry over to into the GS43999. These are legendary watches, and modern renditions can be found as part of today’s Elegance line within the Grand Seiko catalog under the model name “First.

Significant changes came in 1963, though, with the new Grand Seiko Self-Dater 43999 Chronometer. The relatively anonymous design of the “First” made way for a more unique case that would quietly set the tone for future GS releases. The somewhat spindly lugs were replaced by chunkier units that flowed organically from the mid-case. Platinum became steel, and gold-filled joined solid gold. The dagger hands remained but were paired with thicker applied indices and logo.

The notable addition to the 43999 was a date window, hence the name “Self-Dater.” Its the first-ever Grand Seiko to sport such a feature. Still, we must remember that at this time, Seiko was highly interested in besting the Swiss. Therefore, the brand wasn’t content with simply adding a date function. This watch, 60 years ago, had a very modern and rare (for the time) quick-set mechanism.

The watch was designed by Taro Tanaka, the first graduate of a college design programme hired by Seiko. He wanted to design a watch that would “sparkle brilliantly” while on display, one that would compete with the Swiss watches of the time. He came up with a set of rules that would come to be known as the “Grammar of Design.” This meant perfectly flat surfaces and angles for cases, dials, hands and indices. All distortion would be eliminated and the case finish would have a mix of high polish and brushed surfaces, couples with razor-sharp edges. 

The Grand Seiko caliber 430, later renamed 5722, is a manual winding mechanical movement, that runs at 18000bph, has 35 jewels, known as Self-Dater for being the first Grand Seiko with date function.

FUN FACTS

Interestingly, “Chronometer” was on the dial under the Seiko logo through 1966. After this point, the Swiss chronometer rules took effect, and it disappeared. While the watch was a certified chronometer, a Gothic “Grand Seiko” font stood above 6 o’clock. This too was replaced with an applied “GS” logo, “Grand Seiko,” and “Diashock” in 1967 and 1968.

PERSONAL NOTE

The Grand Seiko 43999 Self-Dater is an important chapter in the brand’s history due to its date function. It, along with the King Seiko 4420-9990 and Seiko Liner 46999 made up the “big three” chronometer-certified watches from the brand before the rules changed. It’s a mighty watch and being freshly serviced, can easily step for daily duty.