Heuer Carrera 1553 N Vintage Chronograph 1972

THE WATCH

In the 1960s and 1970s, no brand was more prominent in motorsports timing than Heuer.

A successor of the reference 1153, this Carrera 1553 N was introduced in 1972 and is one of the rarer versions of the vintage Carrera's. While the cushion-shaped case remained unchanged, there were significant adjustments to the dial design. In addition to the blue version 1553N (noire), there was also a silver dial version 1153S. The trademark of this Carrera is the small running seconds at 10 o'clock and the model name Carrera running into the 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock. The metallic blue surface of the dial has a lighter or darker shade depending on the light. The chronograph has an orange second hand that adds a pop of colour and a silver tachymeter scale giving the dial a great contrast. A date window is at 6 o'clock.

A BIT OF TRIVIA

The first generation of the Carrera, the reference 2447, was launched at the Basel Fair in 1963. Designed by Jack Heuer himself, it was introduced as an entirely new style of chronograph designed specifically for professional drivers and racing enthusiasts.

The original design was influenced by Jack Heuer’s love of modern art and architecture as much as his passion for racing. Inspired by mid-century masters like Eames and Le Corbusier, he imagined a watch with a ‘clear, clean design’ and absolute legibility that would meet the needs of motor racing with clarity and flair. The result was a timepiece that embodied the values and aspirations of a new generation, combining contemporary aesthetics and ground-breaking functionality with unparalleled elegance.

In 1967 Heuer supplied stopwatches, chronographs, and other timing equipment for the Intrepid yacht, which went on to win that year’s America’s Cup. The following year Heuer celebrated the successful collaboration by creating a brand new Carrera – the Skipper. 

The left-hand orientation  of the crown follows Heuer's dedication to developing one of the first automatic chronograph movements, the caliber 11 in 1969, as part of a coalition with Breitling, Dubois Dépraz, and Hamilton-Buren. As an upgrade to the caliber 11, 1971's caliber 12 featured a faster beat rate of 21,600 vph, for better precision. A year later, the caliber 15 was released by Heuer and Breitling, which used a KIF shock protection system, while also being a cost-effective alternative to the prior variants. That's the movement found inside this Heuer Carrera 1553 N.

The introduction of this movement coincided with the trend for larger and more colorful timepieces. The 1970s saw the introduction of barrel-shaped watches, bold designs, and flashy dials. As well as the technical innovation of the Calibre 11, Heuer began moving away from the classic black and white designs of the 1960s to the vibrant colors and radical shapes of the new decade, cementing its reputation as a trend-setting industry leader.

TAG Heuer relaunched the Carrera in 1996, and the unexpected impact of the successful limited release changed the course of the company – and the world of watch collecting – forever. The reissued watch ignited a new fascination with the mythology and magic of Heuer’s early years, inspiring a new generation of vintage Heuer collectors. The Carrera had gone from curious throwback to front and center in the TAG Heuer range, and has maintained its position ever since.

OUR THOUGHTS

To spark a vintage collector's attention, it is known that a vintage watch must have been preserved in good condition. We are convinced that the condition of this Heuer Carrera will satisfy even the most discerning collector. A flawless dial with original luminous material and the pillow-shaped stainless steel case with sharp lugs and intact finish, so much so that the pawn shop reference mark is a part of its history and removing it would take away form this unpolished case. This is about as good as you will get.